Joe; have I got this right - your apple, fig, and plum are existing (already planted and growing) trees? And, you want to graft additional
varieties to them? If so, your grafting wood will 'keep' (wrapped in a damp sheet or two of newspaper and sealed in a plastic bag) inside your refrigerator for a long time.
Depending on which grafts you plan on making, you can either do them 'today,' or in a month - after the bark is 'slipping.' Dormant grafts, like the cleft, or whip & tongue can be made now
. If you plan on making any bark grafts, you will have to wait for the sap to flow, and the bark to slip
. If you've young trees, I'd suggest the dormant grafts. If they're say, 20 years or older, their diameter and bark thickness make a bark graft your best option.
As for that Fig ... I've never known anyone to graft over, or 'top-work' a fig...? I suspect their scion wood is too weak and hollow to withstand grafting. And, they are so easily started from 'cuttings.' Their bark never seems thick enough to 'bark graft,' and I believe I've heard it said they 'bleed,' or ooze sap too much to be successfully top-worked. -- Anyone had any success with them? --
As for rooting Fig cuttings, my best advice comes from a past master fig grower, Helen Webb
of Yamhill (credit where credit's due). She taught me to insert them into garden soil at a sharp angle. Using a 12 to 18 inch cutting (simply a piece of last years growth, though second year wood works good too), leave only 2 or 3 buds above the soil line, and don't bury the rest deeper than 8 inches below, at an angle. That 'angle' keeps the entire cutting in a zone of warmth, it will send out roots from the buried buds, or nodes; after one season of water and protection you can give them away (as I'm doing now!) 'bare root,' or pot them up, or, leave them another year.
--- Now, if I didn't guess correctly at your intentions - set me straight, and I'll try again! This seems my addiction