Congratulations, you're a Grafter!
Now is a perfect time to plant your baby pears into the ground. Whether a permanent location or not, a pear tree would be safer with its roots underground than in a pot - with the potential of freezing from all sides if not jockeyed around to safety throughout the winter.
Just remember, you will have vulnerable young trees standing alone; you may use this opportunity to drive a strong steak along side them. This stake can support them from harsh winds, and also mark their location - adding a little protection. A small wire cage to protect from dog / cat / children ... may also be good insurance.
If your trees have multiple shoots of growth - a case of each scion bud having developed a shoot - remember to snip off the weaker and leave just one "shoot" as the "trunk" of your pear trees. You can prune them as we do in Oregon: anytime after the leaves drop (or blow off) this Fall / Winter.
Also, remember to "head" that remaining shoot (its future trunk) at the level you want it to branch. Meaning; if you'd like a "vase-shaped" tree (which I'd recommend with pears, considering their wild up-right growth habit), when planted, if it's strongest shoot (future trunk) is 4 feet or more in height you may prune it (an exhilarating move) just above the bud where you want the highest limb.
Next year, 3 or 4 of its upper-most buds will send up new shoots; these will become the branches. Let them grow straight up, as tall and thick as they'll get - all summer. Next winter "spread," or bend them to the angle you'd like the branches. Leave them bent for one growing season, and they will remain at that angle all their life, and hopefully yours!
Keep us posted